I never meant to spend the night in Dilijan. I’d been making my way through northern Armenia towards the capital… Read the rest →

In summer, it starts as a shallow furrow in the grass. Not yet a stream, much less a river, its… Read the rest →

The smell in the air is of pastries, tobacco smoke and Metro tunnels. It’s a spring afternoon in the French… Read the rest →

If it wasn’t for the snorkel wedged into my mouth, I’d be as slack-jawed as a toddler at a magic… Read the rest →

The views from Kosovo’s highest peak are incredible. Or so I’m told, anyway. It’s a tricky thing to confirm in… Read the rest →

They do a mighty fine goulash in the Dog & Gun, using a recipe that’s been bringing in hikers for… Read the rest →

It’s 11pm in the capital. London’s Euston Station isn’t high on allure at any time of day, but it’s fair… Read the rest →

“I started walking these hills when I was seven, collecting wild honey with my father,” says Habib, our guide. We’re… Read the rest →

Little Salmon Bay was all mine until the visitor with the claws arrived. The crab on the rock was as… Read the rest →

For the eighth night in a row, the great llama in the sky appears high above the Central Andes. Every… Read the rest →

It’s a hot, still day in the Flanders countryside. Tractors chug past fields of cabbages and hop vines. Wind turbines… Read the rest →

Devon: a dreamy land of cream teas, quiet coves and murder in cold blood. It’s not a slogan you can… Read the rest →

I’ve fallen into the quaintest snow globe in the toy shop. Above me and around me, flakes are tumbling onto… Read the rest →

They didn’t give me a bike lock. I was about to embark on a five-day cycling tour from one end… Read the rest →

A musician pulled up a chair just before midnight. She uncased her fiddle, toe-tapped the pub flagstones to find the… Read the rest →

By seven o’clock in the evening, the white wine has turned Georgia soft-focus. I’m being driven through a world of… Read the rest →

Bull elephants don’t do light breakfasts. Long before we saw the enthusiastic diner we heard the enthusiastic dining; Osman Suluman… Read the rest →

It is getting on for evening when I discover the simple joys of a pot of tea and a view… Read the rest →

In a quiet clearing in the woods of Brocéliande, two large burial stones stand upright under a holly tree. A… Read the rest →

I’m in a museum, watching a documentary about a western Romanian city. Outside the windows of the small room in… Read the rest →